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Blue water covers most of our planet,
but in it are set tiny specks of land,

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some the tips of volcanoes,
some mere rings of coral.

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They're miniature enclosed worlds

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where animals and plants become transformed
into new species with extraordinary speed.

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If you wanted to pick a really remote desert island
cut off from the rest of the world,

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you might well choose this one.

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This is Aldabra in the Indian Ocean.

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The nearest land in that direction
is the coast of Africa, about 250 miles away.

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Over there, about the same distance,
is Madagascar,

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and if you sailed in that direction,
you wouldn't hit much

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until you got to the coast of Australia
4,000 miles away.

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The island is the tip
of an extinct submarine volcano

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that rises 15,000 feet from the bottom of the
Indian Ocean and is capped with coral rock.

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When it finally rose above the surface of the sea
about 50,000 years ago, it was lifeless,

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but now, a mere 50,000 years later,
well, just look.

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Frigate birds, thousands of them,
circle above one end of the island.

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They've come from all over the Indian Ocean,
even from India itself 2,000 miles away,

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to nest on this particular island
in the mangroves.

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The white-headed birds among them
are immatures,

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and there are two different species of them,
one bigger than the other.

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The males inflate their scarlet throat pouches
to show that the site is taken,

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and to attract the female.

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When she arrives, he persuades her to stay
with ecstatic shakes of his head.

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Red-footed boobies are here, too.

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They're great travellers,
and their chicks, which are already fledging,

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may well be fishing 3,000 or 4,000 miles away
within a year.

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Noddies nest not on Aldabra
but on a neighbouring atoll,

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building platforms of seaweed
in the Pisonia trees,

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and beneath, on the open coral sand,
two million sooty terns lay their eggs.

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Their vast numbers are an indication
of the richness of the surrounding sea.

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Every day, the birds take from it
many tons of small fish,

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little squid and other marine creatures.

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The atoll itself provides no food for them.

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All a pair of sooty terns seek from it

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are a few square inches of dry land
on which to place their single egg,

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and an absence of cats, rats
and all other egg-stealers and chick-eaters

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that plague nesting sites on the mainland.

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Such security is important to these terns,

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for not only do they lay their eggs exposed
and unprotected on the ground,

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but their young remain flightless
for several weeks after hatching

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and a hungry cat could cause havoc among them.

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So terns find it well worthwhile,
for the sake of such security,

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to fly hundreds of miles to this island.

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The plants that grow on remote islands
like Aldabra... how do they get here?

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Well, some certainly come by sea.

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In a short walk along this high-water mark,

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I've picked up already
three different kinds of seeds.

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Here's the biggest floating seed of them all.
This is a coconut.

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There's the familiar nut
which contains the white flesh,

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and this husk, from which we sometimes
make coconut mats, is the flotation device.

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Nuts like this can float in the sea
for up to four months. This one is dead...

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...but here is one that's alive and still sprouting

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The green stem springing from the top,
a white rootlet striking down underneath.

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Under natural conditions, coconuts
establish themselves at the head of the beach.

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As they grow taller, they lean out over the sand
so that when they're full-grown,

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their nuts will drop within reach of the high tide

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and be washed out to sea
to spread to other islands.

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A land-living animal also reached here by sea.

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The time and place to find it
is at night among the coconut groves.

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It travelled here as a larva in the same way
as the coconuts, floating in the surface waters.

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One or two in a million
were washed up on the beach

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and crawled ashore to live on land
among the coconuts, feeding on them.

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It's almost the only creature here
likely to give you a painful bite,

64
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so it needs tackling with care.

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It's the coconut crab.

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Its legs are so long that it can
embrace the trunk of a coconut palm,

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and it has no difficulty
in clambering up to the top.

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There it cuts down young nuts with its pincers,

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and returns to the ground
to feed on the soft white coconut flesh.

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Crabs as a group are sea-living creatures
and breathe in water by means of gills.

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To breathe in air, the coconut crab
has developed large pouches within its shell

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that have moist linings
and can act as simple lungs.

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But when it breeds,
it has to return to the sea.

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There it releases its eggs and sperm
into the water at high tide,

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so that its larvae will circulate through the sea,

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and may be washed up on some new island.

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One exceptional land animal
made the voyage to Aldabra as an adult:

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Its most famous inhabitant, the giant tortoise.

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Most tortoises are naturally buoyant.

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If one on the coast of mainland Africa, grazing
among the mangroves, were swept out to sea,

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it might survive long enough to be carried
by currents to the islands of the Indian Ocean,

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and later to spread among them.

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That, almost certainly, is how ancestors
of the Aldabran giant tortoise reached here.

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It's not a very hospitable place
for animals like tortoises

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that feed on land-living plants.

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The coral rock
which forms the substance of the island

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erodes into a honeycomb
of wickedly sharp blades and spikes.

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Any creature moving over it has to step with care
if it's not to cut itself badly.

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Here and there, the rock forms deep pits
into which tortoises sometimes tumble.

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When that happens, there is no escape,

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and the trapped animals,
even if they survive the fall, die from starvation

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Quite apart from such traps, the island
is a harsh, taxing place in which to live.

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The tropical sun, beating down on the animals,
threatens to bake them alive inside their shells,

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and the remains of casualties are common.

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So as the day heats up,

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the tortoises head determinedly
for the few trees that can provide shade.

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Here and there on some beaches
grow low, windswept Guettarda trees.

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By noon, the ground beneath their branches
is packed with refugees from the sun,

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waiting for the temperature to fall
so that they can search for edible leaves.

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Birds, too, can overheat.

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The frigates swoop over the one almost
permanent lagoon of rainwater on the island,

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snatching sips from its surface.

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Tortoises, too, must have fresh water.

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Although they don't drink every day,

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they must do every week or so
if they're to survive.

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Water can also cool an overheated body.

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As the dry season progresses,

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the water evaporates and the pools
get smaller and more crowded.

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Many that came here for relief
are near the end of their strength.

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Some are unable to drag themselves
out of the mud, and so die of starvation.

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And yet, in spite of all these hardships,
the tortoises breed and proliferate.

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There are some 150,000 of them on the atoll.

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Their staple food is vegetation and
they crop the grass right down to the rootstock.

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But as island animals everywhere tend to do,

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they've broadened their taste in food
to include almost anything that is edible,

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including the carcasses
of their dead companions.

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Flesh is too nutritious
to be allowed to rot and go to waste

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in this land where there is so little to eat.

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50,000 years, which is the time, apparently,
that Aldabra has been above the sea,

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is not a very long time in terms of evolution.

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Nonetheless, 50,000 years of isolation
on the island

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has brought changes
to many plants and animals that live here.

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They've begun to take on their own character,

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so now they differ slightly both
from the ancestors which colonised the island

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and from their nearest relations
elsewhere in the world.

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For example, this close-cropped withered turf
around me

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contains about 20 different species of plants.

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All have been relentlessly cropped
by giant tortoises like that.

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And look, for example, at this little sedge.

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Most sedges bear their flowers at the top
of stems that rise quite high above the leaves.

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Flowers sticking up like this would not survive
long on Aldabra. The tortoises would eat them.

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These Aldabran sedges bear their flowers
and develop their seeds

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close to the rootstock where the jaws
of the hungry tortoises can't reach them.

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The changes that take place in an island species
are not always directly useful like that.

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Another of Aldabra's plants has changed in a way

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that seems to have
no practical significance at all.

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This is a lily called Lomatophyllum.

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It's slightly different in colour from Lomatophyll
growing elsewhere, but that's all.

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The difference is very trivial.

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But some island plants are spectacularly
different from their nearest relatives.

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Very, very rarely,
extraordinary double nuts like this

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are washed up on the shores
of the coral islands of the Indian Ocean.

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For centuries,
nobody knew where they came from.

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Some said they were produced
by fantastic palm trees

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that grew under the surface of the sea,
so they were called coco-de-mer.

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People believed that their kernels
could be made into irresistible love potions

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and that their shells, when turned into a cup,

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would render the most powerful poison harmless.

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A single nut like this
was literally worth a king's ransom.

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It wasn't until the 18th century

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that people discovered
that the palms that produced these nuts

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grew in one tiny group of islands
in the Seychelles, some 700 miles from Aldabra.

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The largest surviving group of these trees
stands on the little island of Praslin.

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There are male and female trees.

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The males produce small yellow flowers
on long spikes,

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and on them lives a little gecko,
feeding on their nectar and pollen.

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Once again, it's an island original,

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slightly different in colour
from others in neighbouring islands.

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The female flowers start as small reddish buds,
no bigger than a man's fist,

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but they will develop into the biggest seed
produced by any plant.

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It takes seven years for the nuts to develop,

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and when they are mature,
they are so large and so heavy

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that almost the only way of opening them
is with a saw.

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Inside, you can see how very different
they are from coconuts.

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Not only do they have two lobes to them,

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but the nut itself is full solid with flesh.

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Flesh that is so heavy
that these mature nuts won't float in sea water.

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Indeed, sea water kills them.

169
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And that means two things.

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First of all, that these palms have never
been able to spread to other islands,

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and secondly,
that they must have actually evolved here.

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Isolation changes not only plants but animals.

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On Aldabra, wandering among the tortoises
are sacred ibis with light blue eyes.

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Others elsewhere have dark eyes.

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The Aldabran ibis breed among themselves
and feed on small shore creatures.

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Land crabs are far too big to be eaten,

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but they have to be pecked
to clear them out of the way.

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Several species of Aldabran birds have developed
slight variations that make them unique.

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The kestrel here is slightly smaller than the
Madagascar species, but otherwise the same.

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The Aldabran sunbird, however,
is a little darker than its African relations.

181
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But perhaps the most dramatic
and certainly the most endearing quality

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brought to some of the birds of Aldabra
by isolation is this.

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Not only extreme tameness, but flightlessness.

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This is the Aldabran rail.

185
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Flying takes a lot of energy.

186
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It's of obvious value
when escaping ground-living enemies,

187
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but there are no such enemies
on Aldabra or other remote islands.

188
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So some birds that reach such islands by air
have given up flying.

189
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Their wing muscles have dwindled
and they can't fly even if they wanted to.

190
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The Aldabran rail is only one example.

191
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A kind of pigeon once lived on another island
in the Indian Ocean: Mauritius.

192
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It, too, became flightless
and grew as big as a turkey.

193
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It was so tame that European sailors
were able to kill it with clubs.

194
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They called it the dodo,
and in less than 200 years after finding it,

195
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they'd exterminated it.

196
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Grazing alongside the dodo in Mauritius,

197
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and living in other islands in the Indian Ocean
as well, were giant tortoises.

198
00:21:06,450 --> 00:21:11,910
They, too, were taken for food by seamen
and were exterminated.

199
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But Aldabra is so remote
that few ships come near it,

200
00:21:16,290 --> 00:21:19,460
and here alone, the tortoises have survived.

201
00:21:21,970 --> 00:21:27,430
It seems likely that the African ancestors
of these creatures were of a normal size,

202
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and that these tortoises became giants
as a consequence of living on islands.

203
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Isolation may have had another effect
on the tortoises as well.

204
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When African tortoises are threatened,

205
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they behave in the same way
as this baby Aldabran tortoise.

206
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They first pull in their head,

207
00:21:49,450 --> 00:21:53,290
and then they pull after it
their heavily armoured front legs

208
00:21:53,460 --> 00:21:59,460
so that nothing sticks out and they're
comparatively safe from their enemies.

209
00:21:59,710 --> 00:22:04,050
But when the Aldabran tortoise grows up,
its proportions change,

210
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as this one's have done.

211
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This one is now so big
that these huge legs won't fit into this space,

212
00:22:12,270 --> 00:22:15,690
so that whatever it does, something sticks out.

213
00:22:15,850 --> 00:22:20,190
It's a fair bet
that if there was a hyena on the island,

214
00:22:20,360 --> 00:22:23,030
it would make a meal of the giant tortoise.

215
00:22:23,490 --> 00:22:27,030
But there isn't on Aldabra, so this creature's safe.

216
00:22:29,490 --> 00:22:32,870
Just why the island tortoises
should have grown so huge,

217
00:22:33,080 --> 00:22:36,920
and another species has done the same
in the Galapagos islands,

218
00:22:37,080 --> 00:22:38,920
is by no means clear.

219
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It may be that a large animal
with big reserves of fat

220
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is better able to survive bad seasons
when there's little to eat.

221
00:22:47,550 --> 00:22:50,760
It may even be
that with no predators on the island,

222
00:22:50,930 --> 00:22:53,560
these long-lived creatures just go on growing,

223
00:22:53,720 --> 00:22:57,440
but it is not a phenomenon
that is restricted to tortoises.

224
00:22:57,690 --> 00:23:03,940
On an island 3,000 miles away from Aldabra,
there is another giant reptile.

225
00:23:06,610 --> 00:23:09,570
Komodo is a small island in Indonesia.

226
00:23:09,950 --> 00:23:12,030
From here, back in the 1920s,

227
00:23:12,200 --> 00:23:16,960
came stories of a huge lizard
that became known as the Komodo dragon,

228
00:23:17,120 --> 00:23:20,000
and here the dragons still live.

229
00:23:44,820 --> 00:23:46,360
It's not difficult to find them.

230
00:23:46,530 --> 00:23:50,860
All you need is the carcass of a goat,
preferably decayed and smelly,

231
00:23:51,030 --> 00:23:54,030
and the scent will attract them from miles around.

232
00:24:26,360 --> 00:24:31,780
It used to be thought that
these very big ones were entirely scavengers,

233
00:24:31,990 --> 00:24:35,030
relying on what carrion they could find,

234
00:24:35,330 --> 00:24:40,540
but now we know that
actually they are active killers.

235
00:24:40,870 --> 00:24:50,220
They attack and kill goats,
young buffalo, and even on occasion, man.

236
00:24:50,920 --> 00:24:54,430
The reason that I can stand here
with relative safety

237
00:24:54,600 --> 00:24:59,890
is that their eyesight is not very good,
they are almost deaf,

238
00:25:00,100 --> 00:25:03,520
and they rely on their senses,

239
00:25:03,730 --> 00:25:08,820
primarily on that big yellow tongue
which flicks out and tastes the air.

240
00:25:11,070 --> 00:25:16,990
So with any luck, the smell of these dead goats
is more powerful than mine,

241
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:18,790
so they will take no notice of me.

242
00:25:20,290 --> 00:25:25,040
They are, in fact, the kings of their island.
They are the top predator.

243
00:25:25,460 --> 00:25:29,090
There is nothing here
which preys upon them and is bigger,

244
00:25:30,920 --> 00:25:33,680
and nothing with which
they have to share their food.

245
00:25:35,260 --> 00:25:40,430
So, from that point of view,
there is no reason why they shouldn't grow big.

246
00:25:41,480 --> 00:25:45,150
And the fact is that there is
a positive advantage in growing big,

247
00:25:45,310 --> 00:25:51,400
because the big ones
are getting the bigger share of the food.

248
00:25:52,990 --> 00:25:58,450
Not only that, but we now know
that these big ones eat small ones.

249
00:25:59,410 --> 00:26:05,540
That perhaps is a reason why,
in the isolation of their island,

250
00:26:05,790 --> 00:26:09,460
these kings of Komodo have grown so huge.

251
00:26:11,050 --> 00:26:13,510
And they are indeed immense.

252
00:26:14,010 --> 00:26:19,140
They're related to the water monitors
of Asia and Africa and the goannas of Australia,

253
00:26:19,430 --> 00:26:21,010
but they are much more massive,

254
00:26:21,180 --> 00:26:26,940
for whereas two-thirds of the length of these
other monitors is taken up by a long thin tail,

255
00:26:27,190 --> 00:26:30,230
the dragon's tail is only about half its length.

256
00:26:30,980 --> 00:26:37,740
Big ones like this can weigh up to 100 pounds
and grow to over nine feet long.

257
00:26:44,710 --> 00:26:46,460
Komodo is not, like Aldabra,

258
00:26:46,620 --> 00:26:50,090
a coral atoll growing
on the drowned tip of a submarine volcano,

259
00:26:50,290 --> 00:26:55,470
but the eroded remains of one that stood
many thousands of feet above sea level.

260
00:26:57,010 --> 00:27:00,800
Volcanoes, indeed,
have built many of the most isolated islands.

261
00:27:01,050 --> 00:27:04,810
The Hawaiian islands,
lying in the eastern Pacific, are all volcanic,

262
00:27:04,980 --> 00:27:08,520
and the biggest and newest of them
is still erupting.

263
00:27:38,800 --> 00:27:44,140
Torrents of basaltic lava erupting from vents
10,000 feet up on the mountain

264
00:27:44,310 --> 00:27:47,980
sometimes flow for many miles
down the volcano's flanks.

265
00:28:06,700 --> 00:28:09,080
When, eventually, they cool and solidify,

266
00:28:09,250 --> 00:28:13,210
they become vast slopes of black naked rock.

267
00:28:16,000 --> 00:28:21,090
Such areas as this
may remain virtually sterile for decades.

268
00:28:24,260 --> 00:28:30,850
Some vents produce vast quantities of granular
ash which builds up around them into cones.

269
00:28:31,730 --> 00:28:34,690
Plants have a better chance
of getting root on such material,

270
00:28:34,980 --> 00:28:39,570
and within a century or so,
the ash slopes may be covered with green.

271
00:28:41,030 --> 00:28:44,450
These high islands
collect moisture-laden clouds,

272
00:28:44,620 --> 00:28:48,580
and on the windward side,
rain falls very heavily indeed.

273
00:28:49,580 --> 00:28:51,920
Streams flowing down the mountainside

274
00:28:52,080 --> 00:28:57,170
cut through the layers
of loosely compacted ash, eroding deep valleys.

275
00:28:57,340 --> 00:28:59,510
So, unlike a coral atoll,

276
00:28:59,720 --> 00:29:03,720
which is a plain platform
of coral, sand and rock only a few feet high,

277
00:29:03,890 --> 00:29:06,760
these immense volcanic islands of Hawaii

278
00:29:06,930 --> 00:29:10,310
offered their colonists a great variety of habitat

279
00:29:10,480 --> 00:29:13,150
from high cold slopes of ash on the summits

280
00:29:13,350 --> 00:29:18,230
to well-watered valleys, hot, lush and humid,
near sea level,

281
00:29:18,820 --> 00:29:24,160
from new, naked basalt to long-established
forest growing on ancient lava flows.

282
00:29:24,450 --> 00:29:32,160
To exploit them, the animal colonists changed
not into just one new form, but into a multitude.

283
00:29:35,000 --> 00:29:36,460
This bird, the palila,

284
00:29:36,670 --> 00:29:40,960
is one of a large family of closely related
Hawaiian birds, the honeycreepers.

285
00:29:41,380 --> 00:29:45,550
Their ancestors were probably
finch-like birds that were swept here,

286
00:29:45,840 --> 00:29:49,180
perhaps by a freak storm
many thousands of years ago.

287
00:29:49,430 --> 00:29:52,890
Once here,
they developed into over 30 different species,

288
00:29:53,060 --> 00:29:55,350
each with its own diet and habitat.

289
00:29:55,850 --> 00:29:57,900
The palila lives largely on seeds

290
00:29:58,070 --> 00:30:02,650
and has the short, powerful beak
needed to open and crack them.

291
00:30:08,120 --> 00:30:14,160
The 'amakihi, while there's no doubt
that it and the palila are related,

292
00:30:14,370 --> 00:30:17,920
has a slender beak,
suited to picking up small insects

293
00:30:18,090 --> 00:30:20,590
and sipping nectar from shallow flowers.

294
00:30:21,090 --> 00:30:25,220
Some species have developed
striking feather colours and adornments.

295
00:30:25,470 --> 00:30:28,470
These enable the male and female
to identify one another

296
00:30:28,640 --> 00:30:31,640
so they don't interbreed with near cousins,

297
00:30:31,850 --> 00:30:34,390
and the species becomes increasingly distinct.

298
00:30:35,690 --> 00:30:41,480
So the 'apapane not only has a longer beak
to suit its almost exclusive diet of nectar,

299
00:30:41,690 --> 00:30:43,690
but a conspicuous red head.

300
00:30:45,610 --> 00:30:49,740
The 'akohekohe
lives on a mixed diet of insects and nectar,

301
00:30:49,910 --> 00:30:53,870
and has developed a little crest of white feathers
at the base of its beak.

302
00:30:58,420 --> 00:31:02,880
The 'i'iwi is scarlet
and has a particularly long curved bill

303
00:31:03,090 --> 00:31:06,800
that allows it to probe deep
into trumpet-shaped flowers

304
00:31:06,970 --> 00:31:09,850
such as giant lobelias and bananas.

305
00:31:20,650 --> 00:31:25,030
And perhaps most engaging of all,
the akiapolaau,

306
00:31:25,190 --> 00:31:27,780
with a splendid dual-purpose beak,

307
00:31:27,990 --> 00:31:32,080
the lower mandible pick-like
to chip away bark to find insects,

308
00:31:32,240 --> 00:31:37,160
and an upper mandible elongated into a probe
with which to winkle them out.

309
00:31:41,290 --> 00:31:45,010
It's located a beetle larva
burrowing away within the bark.

310
00:31:45,300 --> 00:31:50,680
Look how dexterously it uses the two halves
of its beak for these different purposes.

311
00:32:04,900 --> 00:32:09,820
The situation amongst Hawaii's insects
is even more extreme than it is among its birds.

312
00:32:10,200 --> 00:32:15,080
There is a kind of fly called Drosophila.
It's found in many parts of the world.

313
00:32:15,240 --> 00:32:19,120
In North America, for example,
there are about 200 species,

314
00:32:19,290 --> 00:32:25,340
but in these tiny islands of Hawaii,
there are at least 800.

315
00:32:26,300 --> 00:32:30,010
It seems that soon after the islands' formation,

316
00:32:30,180 --> 00:32:35,140
one or at most two species of Drosophila
reached the islands,

317
00:32:35,310 --> 00:32:40,100
and they found the same situation as
the honeycreepers found, a lot of vacant niches.

318
00:32:40,350 --> 00:32:44,860
And so they evolved to fill them,
and they are now Drosophila,

319
00:32:45,070 --> 00:32:50,990
the larvae of which
feed on fruit or rotting leaves or fungi,

320
00:32:51,160 --> 00:32:53,950
or bark or even spiders' eggs.

321
00:32:54,320 --> 00:33:00,370
But now the situation becomes more complex
because in Hawaii, there are lava flows like this,

322
00:33:00,960 --> 00:33:06,960
and such lava flows often isolate
patches of ancient forest like that over there,

323
00:33:07,170 --> 00:33:09,420
and in one small patch of forest,

324
00:33:09,670 --> 00:33:16,220
there may well be one particular species
of Drosophila that occurs nowhere else.

325
00:33:40,580 --> 00:33:43,370
And there are some just there.

326
00:33:53,470 --> 00:33:58,260
These particular ones belong to a group
which have evolved, in their isolation,

327
00:33:58,470 --> 00:34:00,520
an extraordinary courtship behaviour,

328
00:34:00,680 --> 00:34:03,980
just as some honeycreepers
have evolved bright colours.

329
00:34:04,560 --> 00:34:07,690
It's an insect equivalent
of the arena display of antelope.

330
00:34:07,900 --> 00:34:13,820
The males maintain tiny territories
and display and battle with one another.

331
00:34:14,400 --> 00:34:18,530
Instead of antlers,
they've developed heads shaped like mallets.

332
00:34:27,750 --> 00:34:31,920
In another species, the male courts the female
by hoisting his abdomen over his back

333
00:34:32,090 --> 00:34:35,220
and showering her with an aphrodisiac perfume.

334
00:34:38,220 --> 00:34:41,850
Isolation has also affected the wings
of Hawaiian insects.

335
00:34:42,060 --> 00:34:44,140
Flying on an island is dangerous.

336
00:34:44,390 --> 00:34:46,730
It risks being blown out to sea,

337
00:34:48,400 --> 00:34:51,650
and this extraordinary bug
never takes to the air.

338
00:34:52,150 --> 00:34:56,240
Its wings are tiny,
and used only for flirting in courtship.

339
00:34:59,740 --> 00:35:01,990
This lacewing can't even use them for that.

340
00:35:02,240 --> 00:35:05,330
Its wings have become fused together
to form a shell.

341
00:35:06,170 --> 00:35:10,000
The Hawaiian cranefly
has lost its wings completely.

342
00:35:10,670 --> 00:35:13,670
This cranefly's taste for fruit
is typical of its family,

343
00:35:13,840 --> 00:35:16,970
but other insects
have changed their feeding habits.

344
00:35:17,300 --> 00:35:21,100
This flightless bug has adopted
the hunting techniques of the mantis

345
00:35:21,310 --> 00:35:23,470
which never naturally reached the island.

346
00:35:26,810 --> 00:35:29,230
And this fly is going to get a shock.

347
00:35:32,270 --> 00:35:35,610
The twig caterpillar doesn't,
like most twig caterpillars elsewhere,

348
00:35:35,820 --> 00:35:38,530
feed on leaves, but has become a carnivore.

349
00:35:50,290 --> 00:35:53,880
It detected the fly with tiny hairs on its back en

350
00:35:54,130 --> 00:35:58,720
They trigger the caterpillar to arch backwards
and pounce on whatever touched it.

351
00:36:03,100 --> 00:36:07,770
So isolation, by restricting the kinds of creature
that reached Hawaii,

352
00:36:07,940 --> 00:36:14,070
allows those that did great freedom
to develop into different and unexpected forms.

353
00:36:17,320 --> 00:36:22,570
Human beings, the Polynesians,
reached Hawaii several thousand years ago.

354
00:36:22,950 --> 00:36:25,740
When Europeans arrived,
they found to their surprise

355
00:36:25,950 --> 00:36:29,750
an unknown people
with an elaborate and splendid culture.

356
00:36:30,370 --> 00:36:32,330
The Hawaiians were superb seamen.

357
00:36:32,670 --> 00:36:34,800
They not only paddled dugout canoes,

358
00:36:35,000 --> 00:36:40,380
but sailed immense ocean-going double canoes
that could carry several hundred passengers,

359
00:36:40,680 --> 00:36:44,850
and that tradition survives still
in many parts of the Pacific.

360
00:36:56,690 --> 00:37:02,530
The last of the really big canoes
must have disappeared about 100 years ago,

361
00:37:02,780 --> 00:37:05,580
but still, in the remoter parts of the Pacific,

362
00:37:05,830 --> 00:37:09,710
people remembered the techniques
that were used to sail them,

363
00:37:09,870 --> 00:37:13,540
and still practise the skills needed to build them

364
00:37:13,880 --> 00:37:17,880
This particular canoe,
which is very big for modern times,

365
00:37:18,090 --> 00:37:24,300
was built on the tiny island of Ribono in Kiribati
the islands that used to be called the Gilberts.

366
00:37:24,640 --> 00:37:30,980
It is only about 50 feet long, enormous for today,
but only half the size of the old canoes,

367
00:37:31,140 --> 00:37:37,480
and still the people are prepared to sail
on journeys of up to 1,000 miles in it.

368
00:37:37,730 --> 00:37:43,780
The techniques for building it
are those that were used for the old canoes.

369
00:37:44,030 --> 00:37:45,990
The lashings, for instance.

370
00:37:46,200 --> 00:37:49,240
They are made from the fibres of coconut husks.

371
00:37:49,830 --> 00:37:52,660
Clumps are teased out, rolled and twisted

372
00:37:52,830 --> 00:37:55,460
so that each fibre binds with its neighbours.

373
00:37:55,750 --> 00:38:00,130
It is a repetitious job, but a skilled one
if the string is going to be strong,

374
00:38:00,340 --> 00:38:03,380
and it is taken on
by the women and the old people.

375
00:38:03,630 --> 00:38:07,680
Hundreds of yards will be needed
to build a big canoe.

376
00:38:14,650 --> 00:38:17,730
It's used not only for lashing one spar to another

377
00:38:17,900 --> 00:38:22,780
but for sewing together the planks
that form the sides of the big canoes.

378
00:38:49,720 --> 00:38:54,730
The Pandanus tree produces strap-like leaves,
which, when dried and split,

379
00:38:54,940 --> 00:39:00,730
provide ribbons that are woven
into strong and durable mats to serve as sails.

380
00:39:10,450 --> 00:39:13,080
So if you have the necessary
knowledge and skill,

381
00:39:13,250 --> 00:39:19,460
even a small atoll can provide
all the materials to build an ocean-going canoe.

382
00:39:20,420 --> 00:39:24,010
In such craft, the Polynesians
travelled right across the Pacific.

383
00:39:24,510 --> 00:39:28,470
For a long time, Europeans,
so proud of their navigating skills,

384
00:39:28,640 --> 00:39:31,760
maintained that the Polynesian voyages
were accidental,

385
00:39:31,930 --> 00:39:34,390
made when fishing canoes were blown off course.

386
00:39:35,020 --> 00:39:41,480
But the huge canoes carried women and children,
and were loaded with plants and animals,

387
00:39:41,650 --> 00:39:45,030
with every intention of founding new colonies.

388
00:39:46,570 --> 00:39:51,450
The Polynesian navigators had and have
the most astonishing powers of observation

389
00:39:51,620 --> 00:39:53,290
by which they find their way.

390
00:39:54,370 --> 00:39:57,210
A particular kind of bird
during one season of the year

391
00:39:57,370 --> 00:40:00,080
will always travel in a certain direction.

392
00:40:00,710 --> 00:40:05,590
Some birds are ocean-goers, others
seldom travel far from their nesting grounds,

393
00:40:05,800 --> 00:40:10,390
so spotting one
can indicate that there's land close by,

394
00:40:10,550 --> 00:40:12,970
and following it may take you there.

395
00:40:16,310 --> 00:40:17,980
Distant islands can be detected

396
00:40:18,190 --> 00:40:21,770
by their effect on the ripples
on the surface of the sea.

397
00:40:22,860 --> 00:40:25,730
Tall islands trail clouds of characteristic shape

398
00:40:25,940 --> 00:40:28,490
like smoke from a chimney blown by the wind,

399
00:40:28,650 --> 00:40:30,700
and since they are so high in the sky,

400
00:40:30,860 --> 00:40:35,620
they can be recognised and identified
long before the island is visible.

401
00:40:37,080 --> 00:40:42,130
Using such techniques and observing
the sun and stars, the pattern of the winds,

402
00:40:42,330 --> 00:40:45,670
and feeling through the rudder
the movements of swells and currents,

403
00:40:45,880 --> 00:40:49,010
the Polynesians colonised island after island.

404
00:40:49,380 --> 00:40:51,760
Their original home was in the western Pacific.

405
00:40:51,930 --> 00:40:57,310
They reached the Tahitian islands,
in the centre of the ocean, over 2,000 years ago.

406
00:41:00,440 --> 00:41:04,570
They sailed so far eastward
that they reached Easter Island,

407
00:41:04,770 --> 00:41:07,610
three-quarters of the way
to the coast of South America.

408
00:41:09,360 --> 00:41:12,610
Those that settled here
seem to have been more isolated than most,

409
00:41:12,780 --> 00:41:17,830
and, like so many other islanders,
they developed their own culture.

410
00:41:18,290 --> 00:41:21,620
They carved the rocks
of their headlands into strange shapes.

411
00:41:22,210 --> 00:41:24,960
On the flanks of the great volcano
that built their island,

412
00:41:25,170 --> 00:41:31,220
they set up huge images whose enigmatic faces
have haunted the European imagination

413
00:41:31,430 --> 00:41:35,680
ever since they were discovered
by westerners two centuries ago.

414
00:41:48,230 --> 00:41:50,490
The heyday of the Easter Island culture

415
00:41:50,650 --> 00:41:54,240
seems to have been passed
long before Europeans arrived,

416
00:41:54,570 --> 00:42:00,790
for many statues were overturned
and some lay half-finished and abandoned

417
00:42:00,950 --> 00:42:03,620
where they had been carved in the quarries.

418
00:42:14,470 --> 00:42:18,430
The scale of these Polynesian voyages
is difficult to imagine.

419
00:42:18,640 --> 00:42:24,480
From their headquarters in Samoa
to their most northerly colony in Hawaii,

420
00:42:24,650 --> 00:42:29,110
which they reached by way of the Marquesas,
was some 5,000 miles.

421
00:42:30,030 --> 00:42:34,280
The journey to Easter Island, about 3,300 miles.

422
00:42:34,740 --> 00:42:36,740
But the most extraordinary voyage of all

423
00:42:36,910 --> 00:42:42,580
took them across 4,000 miles of open ocean,
south to New Zealand.

424
00:42:44,210 --> 00:42:47,630
The group that landed here,
ancestors of the Maori,

425
00:42:47,790 --> 00:42:51,210
arrived about 1,500 years ago.

426
00:42:52,210 --> 00:42:55,550
The land they discovered
must have been a great surprise to them,

427
00:42:55,760 --> 00:43:00,010
for it was very different from the tropical island
from which they had come.

428
00:43:00,850 --> 00:43:03,680
For much of the year, it was bitterly cold.

429
00:43:04,730 --> 00:43:09,400
In the South Island stood great mountain ranges
covered with snow and ice

430
00:43:09,610 --> 00:43:12,360
that the Maori can never have seen before.

431
00:43:14,030 --> 00:43:19,200
Not only that, but the forests
were far richer in animals and plants

432
00:43:19,410 --> 00:43:21,790
than any island they had yet discovered.

433
00:43:22,240 --> 00:43:26,620
That was because these islands
had a very different origin and history.

434
00:43:27,830 --> 00:43:32,170
They were neither flat coral atolls
nor were they the tips of volcanoes

435
00:43:32,340 --> 00:43:37,590
that had risen above the surface of the Pacific
in comparatively recent geological time.

436
00:43:38,510 --> 00:43:41,180
These islands of New Zealand
were ancient lands.

437
00:43:41,350 --> 00:43:43,430
Fragments of a great supercontinent

438
00:43:43,600 --> 00:43:48,150
of which Australia, Antarctica
and South America had been a part.

439
00:43:48,480 --> 00:43:53,530
In consequence, they had on them
many more different kinds of animals

440
00:43:53,690 --> 00:43:55,570
than other more recent islands.

441
00:43:55,860 --> 00:43:58,820
They had animals like this.

442
00:44:00,410 --> 00:44:02,660
This is the tuatara.

443
00:44:03,080 --> 00:44:09,040
It's a reptile, it's nocturnal and solitary,
and it's a flesh-eater.

444
00:44:09,420 --> 00:44:15,340
It feeds on insects, earthworms
and even young nestling birds.

445
00:44:16,090 --> 00:44:20,970
It might look like a lizard,
but it's a more ancient creature than that,

446
00:44:21,180 --> 00:44:23,640
more closely related to the early dinosaurs

447
00:44:23,810 --> 00:44:26,230
than it is to the modern family of lizards.

448
00:44:26,600 --> 00:44:31,100
Once creatures like it must have swarmed
over that great supercontinent,

449
00:44:31,270 --> 00:44:34,820
but New Zealand split away
from the supercontinent

450
00:44:35,030 --> 00:44:37,150
before the great expansion of the early mammals

451
00:44:37,320 --> 00:44:41,700
which ultimately led to the extinction
of most of the early reptiles.

452
00:44:41,950 --> 00:44:47,120
Only in New Zealand
did the tuatara remain safe.

453
00:44:47,870 --> 00:44:52,840
And New Zealand also has been
a sanctuary for another early creature.

454
00:44:55,090 --> 00:44:58,670
The kiwi. It's a bird, but what an odd one.

455
00:44:59,010 --> 00:45:03,470
It has no visible wings and no tail
and lives in a burrow.

456
00:45:08,270 --> 00:45:12,480
There, it produces a single and enormous egg.

457
00:45:20,150 --> 00:45:22,110
Flightless, living in burrows,

458
00:45:22,280 --> 00:45:26,410
with feathers so long and loose
they look like shaggy fur,

459
00:45:26,620 --> 00:45:31,000
and running quietly across the forest floor
at night in search of food,

460
00:45:31,210 --> 00:45:35,960
this odd animal could be considered
a kind of bird equivalent of a mammal.

461
00:45:36,420 --> 00:45:40,090
Indeed, the kiwi does play that role
in these islands

462
00:45:40,380 --> 00:45:44,180
where originally there were
no land mammals of any kind.

463
00:45:53,520 --> 00:45:57,820
It has, however, retained that characteristic
possession of the bird, a beak...

464
00:45:59,990 --> 00:46:01,700
...and it uses it to collect worms,

465
00:46:01,860 --> 00:46:06,740
plunging it deep into the earth
to smell for them as a mammal does.

466
00:46:10,700 --> 00:46:15,210
The ancestors of the kiwi were flightless
before New Zealand was isolated,

467
00:46:15,380 --> 00:46:17,380
for the kiwi is a ratite.

468
00:46:18,550 --> 00:46:22,050
Other members of that family
of ancient flightless birds

469
00:46:22,220 --> 00:46:25,680
still survive on other fragments
of the great supercontinent.

470
00:46:25,840 --> 00:46:31,390
There's the ostrich in Africa, the rhea
in South America and the emu in Australia.

471
00:46:31,730 --> 00:46:34,230
All those are bigger than the kiwi,

472
00:46:34,390 --> 00:46:38,070
but the kiwi once had a cousin
living here in New Zealand

473
00:46:38,230 --> 00:46:40,230
that was bigger than the lot of them.

474
00:46:40,480 --> 00:46:45,860
It was probably the tallest bird
that has ever existed, the moa.

475
00:46:47,570 --> 00:46:51,250
Its bones have been found
in great numbers here in New Zealand.

476
00:46:51,410 --> 00:46:57,420
Often in between the ribs
have been found piles of polished pebbles.

477
00:46:57,630 --> 00:47:03,720
They were the stones from the gizzard
with which the moa ground up its food,

478
00:47:03,880 --> 00:47:11,270
and from the vegetable remains, we know
that it ate fruit, twigs and the leaves of trees.

479
00:47:13,350 --> 00:47:17,770
There were a dozen or so
different species of moa of varying sizes.

480
00:47:19,480 --> 00:47:21,980
This particular one was the biggest of all.

481
00:47:22,280 --> 00:47:25,360
It was not the heaviest bird
that has ever lived,

482
00:47:25,570 --> 00:47:29,780
its relative, the extinct elephant bird
that lived in Madagascar was that,

483
00:47:29,990 --> 00:47:35,040
but its weight nonetheless
was substantial, about 520 pounds,

484
00:47:35,250 --> 00:47:40,840
and it was the tallest of all birds,
standing over 13 feet high.

485
00:47:41,380 --> 00:47:44,510
In fact, it was the bird equivalent
of a giraffe.

486
00:47:47,180 --> 00:47:52,810
This is the mummified head and neck
of one of the smaller species of moa,

487
00:47:53,060 --> 00:47:57,770
and it suggests, because many necks
have been found attached to heads,

488
00:47:58,020 --> 00:48:00,400
that the Maori had so much moa meat

489
00:48:00,560 --> 00:48:05,150
that they could afford to throw away
sections like this.

490
00:48:05,650 --> 00:48:09,620
The Maori not only reduced
the number of moa by hunting,

491
00:48:09,820 --> 00:48:14,370
they also burnt down the forests
on which the moas depended.

492
00:48:14,660 --> 00:48:19,830
And so, by the time the Europeans arrived here
in the 18th century,

493
00:48:20,000 --> 00:48:23,880
the last of the moas
had been extinct for some 200 years.

494
00:48:26,510 --> 00:48:31,970
But in the millions of years that have passed
since New Zealand was isolated as islands,

495
00:48:32,180 --> 00:48:35,430
many more modern creatures have arrived here.

496
00:48:35,640 --> 00:48:40,850
They've got here, as they've managed
to get to islands all over the world, by flying.

497
00:48:42,360 --> 00:48:44,940
Some have changed only a little
since they arrived.

498
00:48:45,110 --> 00:48:49,200
The kereru is still quite clearly a kind of pigeon

499
00:48:56,160 --> 00:49:00,210
And this, the kea, is still recognisably a parrot.

500
00:49:01,290 --> 00:49:03,250
Its ancestors came, doubtless,

501
00:49:03,420 --> 00:49:07,710
from that great parrot homeland, Australia,
1,000 miles away.

502
00:49:07,920 --> 00:49:11,590
Since it's been here,
it's probably changed its habits a good deal,

503
00:49:11,760 --> 00:49:14,470
for it's taken up life in the cold, high mountains

504
00:49:14,680 --> 00:49:19,310
where it feeds on berries and roots,
buds and insects.

505
00:49:28,690 --> 00:49:33,070
It has also, with that adaptability of diet
characteristic of islanders,

506
00:49:33,240 --> 00:49:35,280
become a general scavenger,

507
00:49:35,490 --> 00:49:39,410
and will even feed on carrion
like a crow or small vulture.

508
00:49:41,500 --> 00:49:46,170
One parrot, here, however,
has been changed extremely by island life.

509
00:49:47,210 --> 00:49:48,590
The kakapo.

510
00:49:49,090 --> 00:49:52,180
There are no ground-living
leaf-eating mammals on the island,

511
00:49:52,340 --> 00:49:55,970
so this has become
a kind of parrot-equivalent of a rabbit.

512
00:49:59,810 --> 00:50:05,520
It's extremely nervous, nocturnal,
and it lives on vegetation,

513
00:50:05,730 --> 00:50:11,240
but it shows those two characteristics
of island-living creatures.

514
00:50:11,990 --> 00:50:15,030
It has lost its powers of flight,

515
00:50:15,410 --> 00:50:22,040
so its only defence
is to freeze motionless as it's doing now.

516
00:50:23,170 --> 00:50:26,380
And secondly, it's a giant.

517
00:50:27,340 --> 00:50:31,090
It's the biggest of all the parrots by weight.

518
00:50:32,380 --> 00:50:36,510
A big one can weigh over three kilos.

519
00:50:38,140 --> 00:50:45,270
It also shows only too vividly
a third characteristic of island-living forms:

520
00:50:46,100 --> 00:50:48,900
Their extreme vulnerability.

521
00:50:49,360 --> 00:50:55,740
When their islands are invaded by outsiders,
they often have no defence.

522
00:50:56,620 --> 00:51:01,450
The kakapo's troubles started
when the Polynesians first came to New Zealand.

523
00:51:01,870 --> 00:51:07,000
They brought a kind of rat
which may have preyed upon the nestling kakapo,

524
00:51:07,170 --> 00:51:10,710
and the Polynesians themselves hunted it.

525
00:51:12,090 --> 00:51:16,590
The real catastrophe came
when Europeans arrived,

526
00:51:16,800 --> 00:51:23,640
because they brought with them
those two merciless killers, the stoat and the cat

527
00:51:24,310 --> 00:51:28,940
Against them,
the kakapo had no defence whatever.

528
00:51:29,980 --> 00:51:32,900
Very rapidly, its numbers diminished

529
00:51:33,070 --> 00:51:40,370
until today there are
not more than 60 individual kakapo left.

530
00:51:42,160 --> 00:51:44,290
To give them some chance of survival,

531
00:51:44,580 --> 00:51:50,170
they've been taken to a small offshore island
that has been cleared of cats.

532
00:51:51,000 --> 00:51:56,510
Elsewhere, these domestic pets
that were brought here to catch mice in houses

533
00:51:56,680 --> 00:52:00,180
have run wild in the forests,
and prey on native birds

534
00:52:00,390 --> 00:52:05,310
which have not acquired the right reflexes
to save themselves from its attacks.

535
00:52:31,340 --> 00:52:34,510
Cats are not the only foreign killers here.

536
00:52:34,800 --> 00:52:37,880
Ferrets were imported
for hunting introduced rabbits.

537
00:52:38,340 --> 00:52:40,760
They are domesticated polecats.

538
00:52:41,090 --> 00:52:44,220
Some escaped,
reverted to their wild state and bred.

539
00:52:44,680 --> 00:52:49,100
This one is feeding on a penguin chick
which must have been an easy victim.

540
00:52:49,310 --> 00:52:53,270
None of New Zealand's flightless birds
are safe from them.

541
00:52:55,280 --> 00:52:57,950
People also introduced plant-eating animals.

542
00:52:58,400 --> 00:53:01,490
Possums were brought from Australia as pets.

543
00:53:08,000 --> 00:53:11,790
Rabbits were also imported
to provide meat and fur,

544
00:53:12,130 --> 00:53:15,670
and to put to good use,
as the importers must have thought,

545
00:53:15,960 --> 00:53:19,340
the abundant grass that was going to waste.

546
00:53:19,840 --> 00:53:24,100
And red deer were released in the mountains
to provide hunters with sport.

547
00:53:24,430 --> 00:53:30,060
Yet these seemingly harmless vegetarians
had a catastrophic effect on the native animals.

548
00:53:30,810 --> 00:53:35,230
They grazed so effectively
that they destroyed the trees and bushes.

549
00:53:35,480 --> 00:53:38,780
The soil was washed away
and the forest devastated.

550
00:53:38,940 --> 00:53:43,780
Creatures were robbed of their cover
and vegetation.

551
00:53:45,280 --> 00:53:48,660
The problems of halting this destruction
are very great.

552
00:53:49,000 --> 00:53:52,370
This extraordinary bird is the takahe.

553
00:53:52,710 --> 00:53:56,840
Like the kakapo,
it epitomises the effects of island-living.

554
00:53:57,090 --> 00:54:00,800
It's become a giant,
for it's a rail, like the one in Aldabra,

555
00:54:00,970 --> 00:54:03,050
and the biggest of its family.

556
00:54:03,340 --> 00:54:06,560
It's unique to these islands, it's flightless,

557
00:54:06,720 --> 00:54:10,270
and has virtually no defence against invaders.

558
00:54:10,770 --> 00:54:13,980
At the beginning of this century,
it was thought to be extinct.

559
00:54:14,270 --> 00:54:18,940
Then, after no one had seen a living takahe
for over 50 years,

560
00:54:19,110 --> 00:54:24,110
a small population was discovered
in a remote valley in South Island.

561
00:54:25,120 --> 00:54:27,580
There are about 200 left.

562
00:54:27,910 --> 00:54:32,750
They are unlikely to spread,
for their habitat elsewhere has been destroyed,

563
00:54:33,000 --> 00:54:36,960
and there is the greatest difficulty
in getting them to breed in captivity.

564
00:54:40,210 --> 00:54:47,010
So, unless man is prepared to change his attitude
and become an active protector

565
00:54:47,350 --> 00:54:49,100
as he has done here in New Zealand,

566
00:54:49,350 --> 00:54:52,350
those strange specialised islanders

567
00:54:52,520 --> 00:54:57,860
are doomed to the fate of the first
island-living creature that man exterminated

568
00:54:58,020 --> 00:55:01,320
and become as dead as the dodo.

569
00:55:01,990 --> 00:55:04,740
Of course, not all the creatures
that you find on islands

570
00:55:04,910 --> 00:55:07,780
necessarily spend all their time there.

571
00:55:08,120 --> 00:55:13,460
Some like those tough international
travellers over there, the gannets,

572
00:55:13,660 --> 00:55:15,750
just come here for lodging.

573
00:55:17,330 --> 00:55:20,130
They, like the frigates
and the boobies of Aldabra,

574
00:55:20,300 --> 00:55:23,550
the noddies and the terns
of a thousand tropical atolls,

575
00:55:23,720 --> 00:55:29,720
find their food, not on the islands where
they come to nest, but in the surrounding seas.


